Fully addicted to fishing, Steve is a regular columnist for Southern Trout Magazine where he writes the “New Fly Guy” column focused on helping new fly anglers with tips, techniques and other advice. In addition, he writes the “Kayak Hacks” column for Southern Kayak Fishing Magazine. In 2015, Steve created the Kayak Hacks Fishing YouTube channel focused on gear hacks, fly and spin fishing tips. As of November 2018, it has over 20,000 subscribers and continues to grow rapidly.
“It’s a big, wet desert!” Flat bay, distant, unremarkable shoreline… not a tree in sight… no hint of fish-holding structure…
Are you new to or considering trying inshore fishing? If so, you have a learning curve to climb! Let’s make it easier.
I was totally confused when I started my new life as an inshore angler. A quick look at the North Carolina scenery surrounding my kayak confirmed it was going to be totally different from stalking wary mountain trout in the Blue Ridge or enticing feisty smallies to slam perfectly drifted poppers on the Rappahannock River. I felt like I was seven years old again, new to fishing, totally ignorant and clueless, standing streamside with my Dad about to flip a #2 Mepps spinner into action for the first time.
Clearly, I needed to get educated. I attended the monthly meetings of the NC Kayak Fishing Association, went out with a few guides to learn the ropes and paid close attention to what other anglers were saying.
Chapter 2 - How to Catch Redfish Fishing: Two Revelations
First revelation: The “desert” has structure! It’s hidden by high tide, but channels, oyster beds, deep holes and irregularities in the marshy shoreline replace rocks, blow downs, and other familiar freshwater landmarks.
Second revelation: There is no more exciting fish to catch than a redfish (aka red drum). Yes, speckled trout are fun, but are smaller, and hooking into a flounder is akin to dragging in a tangled mass of seaweed – no run, no fight.
In short order, I became a redfisher. Here’s what I learned about how to catch redfish in North Carolina! Everything… rod, reel, boat, bait, lures… traces back to the fundamental question, “Where do you catch redfish?”
Regardless of whether you are in North Carolina, Florida or even the redfish heaven of Louisiana, it’s all about docks, channels, flats, creeks, and marsh lines (with a nod to mangroves in the deep south). As a kayak angler, I quickly eliminated docks because I did not want to fight the tall wakes churned up by fast-moving powerboats frantically zipping by in the Intracoastal Waterway. That meant using shallow channels to penetrate the kayak friendly, powerboat excluding, flats decorated with oyster beds and bordered by an endless grassy shoreline cut by small creeks.
Tidal Fishing for Red Drum
It only took one low tide recon to realize neither red drum nor their baitfish prey stays in the shallow bays since they dry out at low tide. As the water flushes out, so do the fish. Then, as the tide rolls in, the baitfish come charging back, in a desperate bid to reach the grass where shallow water and tall weeds provide protection from predation.
Perfect. My strategy was settled. I would ambush the redfish as they followed their meals. To figure out where to launch the attack requires a bit of technology.
I looked at the historical satellite pictures on Google Earth to discover the ones taken at low tide. Those show the structure invisible at high tide. The channels are always dark, and the oyster beds usually appear as bright ellipses ringed with a thin border.
After studying the area I intended to fish, it was clear the redfish had to follow specific paths. My buddy and I started moving ahead of the tide, sometimes dragging our kayaks over the mud, to get into an ambush position before the flow advanced enough for the bait and predator migration to start.Here’s the pattern. The red drum follow a channel, winding with it through oyster beds or along a grass line until it breaks open in the bay. Once in the bay, the redfish follow the bait to the grass lines and trail the bait using the slightly deeper water in any creeks to move as far back into the protective grass as possible.
Knowing this, the first place to target is a choke point where the channel breaks out into the bay.
Red Drum Fishing Choke Points
Fish the choke point until the water rises, be sure to watch the depth against the distant shoreline. Once it hits between 18 and 24 inches, move to the grass! At that level, the bait is running along the grass line, looking for the opportunity to disappear into its protective density. At this point the answer to that critical question, “Where do you catch redfish?” becomes interesting.
Red drum are accomplished stalkers and will either follow prey back into the grass (if it is sparse) or set up in their own ambush centered on any variation to the smooth grass line.
Look for small points or coves where the redfish can hover – silently waiting for a school of unsuspecting baitfish to swim by.
The best indicator of a good spot is to see a “bait explosion” of frenetic, panicked baitfish bursting above the surface as a redfish or other predator launches viciously from hiding into a passing school.
When To Move Spots To Catch Redfish
Understanding this dynamic makes it easier to know how to catch redfish from a kayak. After fishing a chokepoint, pedal or paddle silently along the marsh grass looking for explosions or anomalies… anything different from the unbroken shoreline. After finding a likely spot, check the wind direction, position the kayak to cast with the wind for more distance, anchor and standoff as far as you can, stay low if possible, and throw to the target. Do not be disappointed if nothing hits right away because you might be ahead of the redfish migration.
Sit for a bit in case the reds are still coming in, but not more than 30 minutes. Finally, once you catch a red drum, note the environmental conditions with the Free ANGLR app! Of those, the tide level is the most important. The fish will probably only be in that location at that level plus or minus 30 minutes. Outside that window? Move on. As you catch more redfish in different places, your fishing day is as simple as organizing your float plan to be at each spot at the appropriate tide level.
Remember the phrase “shade tree mechanic?” Years ago, it was easy to work on a car; fidgeting with the points, carburetor valves, and timing were all fun things to do in your front yard. Outfitting a modern fishing kayak provides a new outlet to those who like to “do it yourself.” In fact, my YouTube channel, Kayak Hacks Fishing, is dedicated to DIY kayak modifications. If you are new to kayak fishing, here are a few critical accessories and alterations you should buy or make for safety, tackle storage and management, and comfort.
Kayak Safety
An experienced guide once told me new kayak anglers frequently make a mistake, given the enhanced stability of a modern fishing kayak, of believing they never will end up swimming next to the boat.
When discussing safety, a novice might say, “if I flip…” instead of “when I flip…”
There are risks associated with kayak fishing ranging from fishing in hypothermia-inducing cold water or managing the boat properly as an eight-foot wake comes off a container ship trundling by. Patently, the most critical redfish kayak accessory is the personal floatation device or PFD along with other safety items to comply with regulations. Two less obvious, but important, safety accessories are the anchor trolley and the stand up assist/flip-line/ladder.
It is easy to make an anchor trolley if you do not want to buy one, and there are plenty of videos showing multiple approaches. The anchor trolley allows you to control the angle of the boat relative to the fishing target as wind or current pushes against it. Regardless of whether you purchased or make an anchor trolley, be sure you do not tie the anchor directly to the trolley. Instead, run the line through the trolley ring to terminate on a cleat. This allows you to access the rope to quickly release the anchor if you get into trouble in a strong current or need to move the boat to land a fish. And that leads to an essential modification to the anchor system. Put a float on the anchor rope to paddle back to retrieve it if you must cut loose.
A properly configured rope can serve three purposes. The easiest way to flip your kayak is to lose balance standing up. A stand up assist rope or strap is a rope attached to the front handle you can pull against as you hoist yourself up from the seat; creating a stable tripod of rope and two legs.
It allows your feet to remain in a fixed, stable position while avoiding the side to side rocking that happens when trying to stand without one. The same rope can also be used as a flip line to turn a heavy kayak right side up when attached to the side carry strap or a rod holder. Finally, a simple, short section of PVC in the handle forms the stirrup for a kayak ladder to help you wiggle back onto the kayak quickly; leveraging your strong leg muscles to push yourself onto the kayak.
Kayak Tackle Storage and Management
This is where the do-it-yourselfer can really innovate! However, the one accessory you should buy instead of making is the front rod holder. The holder needs to be tall enough to prevent the butt of the rod from banging against your leg on the inside of the kayak, must be able to turn as well as hold the rod when a fish hits. All these characteristics are best delivered by a commercial product.
The most common do-it-yourself project is to outfit a milk crate for behind the seat fishing tackle storage. The most easy DIY modification is to add PVC rod holders and most anglers mount them to keep the rods vertical.
This becomes a problem for redfish since it may take 10 minutes to get a decent sized specimen to the side of the boat.
Many times, the red drum will run entirely around the kayak, and you do not want to have to negotiate the fight between rods standing vertically behind the seat.
Therefore, choose an acute angle for the PVC holders to make it easier to work a fish directly behind your fishing kayak. Frankly, an even better approach is to only use two rods, one in each forward rod holder, leveraging the Mustad Fastach to switch terminal tackle and avoid creating the rear obstacle. Beyond rod holders, there are many options to enhance the crates storage functionality including bolting on a small tackle box, making a movable top shelf or even rigging fishing tools to the side on bungees...
A simple option is to exploit the empty area underneath the seat is to put a kitchen drawer organizer, full of lures or tackle, below the seat. Another easy solution is to strap a butt pack to the front of the seat, lubricate the zipper with beeswax and you have a pouch to hold your most used items.
One caution is to anticipate the day when (not if) your kayak flips and be sure everything is secure. There are many do-it-yourself options for security including bicycle cargo nets or pet barrier nets intended for vehicles.
Kayak Comfort
There are do-it-yourself solutions for cupholders, and those provide an easy way to keep water handy. While drinking water on a hot day is essential, you may feel the need for additional cooling. A simple accessory is a neck wrap using water and evaporative cooling to provide relief. A simple DIY project is to buy a foam stadium cushion and two containers of “blue ice.” Cut two holes in the cushion to fit the ice packs, cover with a towel, and you have a cool seat for a few hours! Throw a few more ice packs into a mylar cold bag from the Dollar Store, and you can be comfortable all day.
Once you find a spot, you need to understand what is the best bait for redfish. Not hard. Use what they are eating! Here in NC, the redfish love mullet and fiddler crabs. Rig them using either a size 1/0 or 1 hook size for redfish.
What is the Best Artificial Bait for Redfish
If you do not like using live bait, the answer to “What is the best artificial bait for redfish?” can generate strong arguments! I remember one expert angler encouraging me to treat my artificial lures with ProCure scent. He assured me any smell would work as long as it was blue crab! While you do not need to follow his lead, adding fragrance is always a good idea although some guides do not recommend putting scent on hard baits.
Top choices of the best artificial bait for redfish include:
Other experts live by D.O.A or Yo-Zuri shrimp under a popping cork.
All of these options leads to the obvious conclusion – there are many effective ways to catch redfish and your decision on what lures to use for redfish will end up being what you are comfortable and competent using.
What is the Best Artificial Bait for Redfish
The only hook type you should use is a circle hook. Throughout their range, redfish are subject to limits and slot sizes that result in the need to release fish. Circle hooks usually penetrate the corner of the mouth, are easy to remove, and reduce fish mortality. Never use a “J” hook or a Kahle hook since both tend to “gut hook” the fish. No need to “Bill Dance” a circle hook to set it!
A redfish strike is abrupt, violent and removes line slack – setting the hook at the same time. Just raise the rod and start the battle!
For some unknown reason, hook sizes are not standardized except for the small hooks used for fly fishing. Match the hook size for redfish to the need for natural presentation and the size of the bait. The most common hook sizes for shrimp and baitfish is a #1 or 1/0 hook size. Larger bait… larger hook – as long as the hook is not obvious versus the size of the bait. At the top end, when fishing with large bait fish for huge “bull” reds, bump up to at 3/0 or 4/0 hook.
Fishing Line for Redfish
Working back from the lure, a typical setup uses 20 pound braided fishing line for redfish regardless of rod type. You should go up or down in strength based on where you are fishing. If the bottom includes rough structure, like an oyster bed, likely to rub or cut the fishing line, go up in thickness or pound test and pay attention to the line during the outing, removing the terminal section when it gets cut up.
In fact, adding a stronger, short monofilament or fluorocarbon leader is mandatory to protect the main line. Just change the leader if you see abrasion. If fishing over a smooth bottom on a sand flat, 15 pound test is plenty. In either case, set the drag at no more than 50% of the line strength to prevent break-offs.
After chasing redfish for six years and making (and learning) from all the mistakes, here is the summary of my top redfish fishing tips on how to catch red drum in North Carolina:
Use a fast action, medium to medium heavy rod on a 2000 or 3000 size reel mounting 20 lb braided fishing line for redfish
Nothing beats live mullet captured fresh using a cast net
If using artificials, Gulp always works with the white jerk shad, white grub or the new penny color shrimp being my preferred soft baits; Saltwater Assassins with a little ProCure are a cheaper option. Use the MR17 hard lure in deeper water and the Zara Spook for topwater
Do a low tide recon to understand the flats. Low tide reveals every nook and cranny.
Locate the channels leading from the ICW and get to the chokepoint ahead of the tide even if you must slog through some mud
Once the bite dies at the chokepoint, follow the redfish and move to the marsh line; targeting creek outlets, points, and small coves. Bounce from spot to spot along the grass line to stay ahead of the reds
Most important! After catching a red drum, note the tide level and the location! Drop a waypoint in the ANGLR app. The reds will return to that spot at that tide level plus or minus 30 minutes.
